Fishing on the Ponoi - 1997 - a Diary

Thursday August 7th

Left Steeple Langford in Tisbury taxi with Tony and arrived Heathrow in time for a Bloody Mary and bar meal and bed - Arlington. Small hot room and slept little.

Friday August 8th

Breakfast (after coffee in room) and bus at 9.20 to Air Port. Arlington in the hands of the builders and fairly chaotic. Now called COMFORT HOTEL!

Off in the bus to Heathrow and after a long wait into wheel chairs and to plane (Cigarettes on the way).

Good flight to Helsinki where we found a man from Salisbury (Scot) Butler, who was going to the Ponoi.

A 'little walk' and back to vodka and tonic and a good fish supper. To rooms at 8.30 for early bed as being called at 4.30 a.m. Next day. HOW HORRID.

Saturday August 9th

Murmansk. Having spent two hours and gone through Passport Control ? times. We are now just rising in the Helicopter. We will be there in 2¼ hours DV.

Stopped for petrol at the dump and got to camp at 3 p.m. - new time. Tent No 11 this year. Brilliant SUN and heater. They have only got 6½ thousand fish since June!

Met Ian with whom I exchanged a kiss!. Mariusz and others whose names escape me. Early supper (4.30) and Tony and I walked down to the pool and back along the shore. Further than I thought and mosquitos were busy so once we were on the path to the cap I hurried ahead as Tony is VERY slow.

Alas his legs turned to jelly during the last bit and I had to call for help and was practically carried back by Mariusz and guide. The doctor was called. It was only legs. Heart and blood pressure sound, so he lay on the bed while ice bags arrived and all attention given.

I had necessary and very pleasant shower. Talked to Mariusz about lines. He is putting a new line (floating) on my reel. Bed with 2 sleeping pills (After 2 bad nights).

Good Night!. Breakfast with the Belgians which was pleasant and put up single rod with a dry fly. The Salisbury 'Scot' had 2 before breakfast.

Sunday August 10th.

Went with Max to Lower Tomba, in Helicopter, starting at 9 a.m. and getting back at 6.30. Tony OK but tired early. Got 3 salmon. Tony says 4 as the fourth got to the boat and got off! They others were let off.

Very jolly drinks and dinner with the wicked U.S. Doctor and his wife, a Finn and American girl. Good meal and a cigarette with the guides after dinner. Then BED. 9½ hour day, VERY strong wind which was difficult. Mrs Doctor says our Salisbury friend only got 6 though he says 9! 'He lied' she said! 9.30 and I'm ready for bed. Off at 9 tomorrow with Mariusz.

Monday August 11th

Went to Something Falls. A dour beat I thought, with Misha who was nice. Got one fish and two Pru???. Not good.

Wind HELLISH. All up stream in gust of VERY strong wind, so had great difficulty casting. Got lots of grayling.

Back to a vodka just after 6 to hear the nice Belgian tell the story of his friend(?) who took 45 minutes to catch a 6 lb salmon which was dead on arrival! Ten minutes to bring in a grayling.

Another Belgian told me all about his sons. One was good and one was bad. He went to Catholic School in England and Oxford and is now good! The Doctor told us all about his ???sten fly which caught all his fish and he hates it. Said he would give me one, then NO, he would give one to Tony. (Then he thought his wife might give me one!) An amusing chap in spite of his being nasty to me last year!

Now says I can go on smoking as I am so old!

The Belgians are lovely. The little Finn kills everything, birds, fish deer, bears and has a German Pointer which assists in the carnage.

I have left Tony in the dining tent with the Vodka while he tells them how to catch fish! He seems fit now and lasts the day out!

I did not leave 200 cigarettes at Murmansk, but cannot find here! Mariusz to the rescue I hope. Yes, in the dining tent.

Tuesday August 12th

Our first day was so hot that I did not use the sleeping bag at all - just my sheet. LAST NIGHT I froze in the sleeping bag and huddled in it all night. Ice in my tooth mug! But the sun is shining. Everything piled on so hope it does not get too hot today. The Doctor and his wife do not believe anything the Scotsman says!!

Went off with Robert A.lovely enthusiastic and polite young American. We went up stream about five miles. Tony had lots of fun and fish. I say three, he says 7. I caught NOTHING! Depressing - lost confidence! Had lunch in the tent (good) and afterwards I caught two quite small and later another, on borrowed time (Tony had stopped fishing). I got my fourth and largest fish and we went back to a Vodka and chat with a Belgian (beginner) and to Ian. Then a lovely shower and then dinner. As we left the dinner tent someone said to Tony, I hear you had a fish! He had four but he counted ones be caught and lost!

Wednesday August 13th

Poor 'one weekers' they only have two more days. Tho' today was HELL! UPSTREAM wind all day and RAIN. Almost non stop. Very cold but a fire in the tent for lunch and nearly got warm. Steep approach which Tony did NOT like! Guides pulled us up!

Thursday August 14th

Got five fish for the book and a sixth to the boat (16 lbs?) Which dropped off. Tony did not do well.

Had an early Vodka and a shower and stove in my tent made it RED hot and dried everything that was not in the 'Drying Tent' including my washing. NEED more WATER. Cooking not so bad this year and no water is BAD.

Teased the Vicomte about the Belgians singing in the dining tent. Then went back to talk to Tony about tomorrow and was sent back as I had a cigarette!

We are not going with Ian tomorrow, damn it as Tony thinks Upper Tomba too much. Mariusz very kind and says he will fetch us half way through the day if we like. BLAST it!

Interesting dinner with the Doctor holding forth about the Broux etc.. A great TALKER but fun. Poured all day. Drying tent full!

Friday August 15th

MILES up river (taken short!). Got only one fish in the morning, then suddenly four after lunch. Missed two 'niggles' COLD but some sun and no rain. Had Boris who is nice. They all are!

After dinner. Great goodbyes. Hailed as an 'average raiser' - Me and the Scotsman!

Needed more water in my tent again. So was a champion water user!

Great goodbyes to all the Belgians. Really quite the nicest bunch of people we've met. The Marquis is gorgeous only exceeded in niceness by the Vicomte. The little Finn who kills everything is a gynaecologist! Two hugs from Sandra - very nice too. The Scots man wants us to teach him bridge. Lives in Broadchalk! So will meet again.

Tomorrow an influx of 16 people so the boat will be busy (only 6 ghillies.)

We have missed Ian but hope to have him next week. There are seals right up the river nearly as high as the camp - which is BAD news for next week. I have added up and have 26 fish this week. Not bad really - average 15. I wonder why I catch them!!

Today I had a chair in the boat. It made an enormous difference - am not tired and had no back ache.

So the first week was GOOD. Amazing and we are very lucky. I have just re-lit my stove (9.30 p.m.) And the tent is warm in spite of a wicked wind. Lets hope next week is as good.

Saturday August 16th

I think I have lost a day somewhere. Saturday - the day everyone goes and 16 new people arrive, Robert was to take us out for two hours - wind was too strong and water dirty after rain, so I did three pictures - 2 of the camp and whiled away the day. Dinner at 4.30! I went down to river to watch the newcomers fish - 8 in a row! The first got two fish and others nothing.

Sunday August 17th

Today in Helicopter to top beat again. Fished for eight hours and got one fish! (And some grayling). Nothing showed, water dirty and sun bright. 'Jolly' dinner. South African on my right. Very pleasant. Drunken Doctor got his 300th salmon!

Monday August 18th

Wonderful day on Pornach with Don. Green highlander. The only fly allowed by him! Tried a bomber - no good. I lost two good fish, one about 5 lbs took me twice across the river and then dropped off at the boat. Finished with a 10lb fish. I got four, lost at least six. Tony got six. I am glad he was 'top rod'. Old Lancashire Peter got 18!! And lost 4. He is only allowed to hear about the four he lost.

Amusing dinner with a nice crowd. Shower in Co-Ed and bed. Exhausted 9 ½ hours fishing!

Tuesday August 19th

Had the dreaded Lower Tomba beat with Alex. We cast unceasingly and had not an over by lunch time. I had to be escorted across the stones to a rock slightly bigger than the rest to spend a penny etc. and then cry 'help' to be escorted back to the boat. No cover anywhere except up a cliff side. Modesty has to suffer! We bashed large slices of river to no avail until 5.30 when I got a fish and another quarter of an hour later. Seals had occupied the beat. I believe Mariusz went up and shot them (illegally) but the two Tomba beats have not recovered. The other beats, especially Clough, have benefited. Clough got 21 fish. That's more like it! Dinner with 2 Englishmen and South African Professor of Philosophy - Interesting.

Did not have a chance to ask Fred if he ever wrote an article on me. But will before the week is up.

Must have cast too many times today and in spite of a chair in the boat, am pretty tired. Tony bulldozes the conversation, but luckily the Englishmen and South African were chatty! Bed early as I had to light my fire to dry my washing.

Hands very sore - all fingers in holes!

Two Frenchmen from last year are here. English not good but I hear yammer yammer yammer in the next tent till very late.

We have three good beats to come - which is nice.

Wednesday 20th

Very disappointing 4th day. Hooked and lost six fish and landed one. WORST DAY YET!! Tony got two.

I cast till I was totally spent (in spite of the chair). After lunch Mariusz concentrated on the right bank and Tony. My left rod cast into the ocean. Could have caught a fish but didn't interest anything at all.

Bloody little Lancashire man so chuffed with his 11 fish (not that I blame him) that he didn't even ask how we did. Two other Brits got 11 fish so they were there damn them. (The fish)

Had a lovely hot shower and went in to dinner. SALMON! At last, sat with the South African Professor who lives in Hindhead and two Frenchmen and little Liverpudlian. Bed 10.10! Tired! Nothing so tiring as NOT catching fish all day.

Thursday August 21st

One day to go and 'Clough' a pool that for two days did magnificently. I think because all the fish were chased out of the lower pools by the seals. Our Guide was Max, a nice lad and a great caster. Had two fish before lunch. Tony 4. Only lost or failed to catch one fish while I was trying on my 'hood' as it had started to rain. Rain soon stopped and it was a lovely day. Had to be escorted to the undergrowth by Max and collected again, So did Tony. Went up in the Helicopter and collected at 6.

Must thank Pilot for his safe journeys. One is always hurried away to a safe distance, so do not say Thank you. The buggies work splendidly. Tony and I always get a lift. Mere 75 year olds have to walk. (Up and down from the Heli-pad.) So far the others seem to have the average 8 or 9 fish. Can you believe that that is an average?

Last night I met one nice friend (South African) Dick's brother, so sent love and kisses.

Talked to Fred before dinner. Staggered to learn that in the opinion of Mariusz and the guides, Tony and I are the best consistent casters in the camp (18 people) but we haven't been catching so many fish! 26 the first week, 15 the second.

Friday August 22nd

With Robert, young and enthusiastic but not too much so. Met several fish and caught 4. Total for two weeks 41 fish, under difficulties. Address exchanged with Ian, Fred and Peter. Photo taken several times! One by request with a cigarette in the mouth.

CLOUGH beat which had been so GOOD was not much today. Fish here and there but Tony's day was made by catching a 15 lb fresh fish. Best so far.

Paid our debts, I found I had got my fishing line FREE. (£25 or more). All very jolly but we get up at 5 tomorrow and have an 18 hour journey home.

Have packed most things. I think all will go in! My fishing bag has to be closed with white and black elastic - NOT elegant.

Sat next to the U.S. Doctor who was very nice. All fingers of both hands are RAW! After 108 hours fishing!

108 hours / 41 salmon = 1 salmon in every 2.6 hours

Be without a fish for, say seven hours and the rest of the time you got lots.

Saturday August 23rd Journey Home

Up 5 a.m. Finish packing and pad locking and kit bags out. Breakfast 6 a.m. and loo. (Took no medicines as I had not done for a week) and prayed my inside would behave. By wonderful luck it shut down completely and functioned normally next day at home . Perfection. But worrying .

REMEMBER if I go next year that the 18 hours getting home is very tiring. Can stand it, but the next 4 days of washing, tidying etc. and answering difficult letters is very, very tiring and help should be available next time - who or how I don't know, but SOMETHING.

Things are lying on the floor in heaps, for disposal (Monday) (Arrived Saturday night) and I feel too tired to cope with more than oddments which I move every time I go up or downstairs!

NEXT TIME MUST arrange to have assistance.

Fred told me (and said 'do not tell the others') that I and Tony were, in the opinion of the Guides and Mariusz, the 'BEST Consistent Casters in the camp!' Tony's and my comment ... The rest must be pretty awful!

Met Dick (our last year's South African friend's brother gave me his card). Fred says his 'article' will be coming out about now and will send it (Fred, the scientist). Ian is coming to see us later in the summer. The photographers full length film will be shown in about a year. We shall be told. Tony is fixing us up for next year!

Journey Home in 7 'transports':
Buggy to Heli-pad
Helicopter (Russian) to Murmansk
Finnair to Helsinki
Wheel Chair to gate 33
Finnair to Heathrow
Wheel Chair to luggage hall
Car to Wiltshire.

We are fixed up for earlier weeks. The 'ideal' week is taken which put us out a bit. Must have two weeks before or after . 'Before' is VERY cold, so it means the week after. Tony means the week after. Tony will be nearly 87. Wonder if he will make it or if I shall.

Fishing on the Ponoi - 1996 - a diary

August 10th Saturday

Only five more days to lift off. Lots to do, including six of family to lunch tomorrow. Had excellent lunch with Audrey Fanshawe do today. Did a bit of sorting of fishing gear and mended Barbour. Stiff neck - going I think - what else can happen?

August 11th. Sunday

Nice to have Conrad, Adria, Arthur and Prue for lunch. Went for a walk in POURING rain. It stopped soon after we got back. Arthur's dog is gorgeous.

August 12th Monday

Went to Salisbury for vodka and cigarettes and to get rid of papers and bottles. Walked Harry. Sorted reels, one very fouled up. Would like to take it to Russia. One singing with shooting head, one floating ditto. One just floating and one intermediate. A bit heavy for the luggage. Waxed my Barbour. It seems heavier than ever!

Rang Tony. He would not have been fit to go to Russia. Only one heal has healed and I don't think he feels very well. Did a big wash. Also put flowers in pots outside and washed the bowls. Hope they survive. Am smoking too much.

August 14th Wednesday

Have collected medicines. Rung Mike, who has rung Frontiers to check flights. Stopped milk and papers. Sorted note case and packed. Petrol in case. Ironed two skirts and three bloused. Packed medicines - lost labels!

August 15th Thursday

Taxi with nice young driver arrived on time. Mark and Caroline 'saw me off'. Found Mike at the bar at the Arlington ready with a Vodka and Tonic. We ate in the bar. Poor man, his walled was stolen at Heathrow and he is without English money or credit cards. Very stoical about it.

August 16th Friday

Off at 8 for the Air Port and WAIT FOR MY CHAIR. In the end only time to rush into Duty Free for cigarettes and straight to the plane. Kit bags searched with a tooth comb. The life belt evidently the trouble. Hope mine gets through in kit bag. Good lunch. Cross words and views of South Sweden. 3.30 local time arrived Helsinki and a nice girl took us, in huge bus to hotel. Big room and huge bed. Can't open windows. Had an awful night at the Arlington and was sleeping soundly when was woken at 6.45. An earlier start tomorrow and last bath for a week!

We walked a long way into the town and took a tripper boat round the harbour which turned out to be 1½ hours round countless attractive islands. There must be 100 or more. A chap told us in 4 languages what to look out for. In 'shirt sleeves' and net top. Cold on the top deck. Well worth doing. Such a wonderful place and so unexpected. Lots of Japanese tourists. Have not connected with any of our party yet.

Saturday August 17th

We got here at last. Up at 5 AM and sat in the bus (after a quick breakfast) One poor chap had no visa and had to be left behind. To Murmansk and another long wait and then with ancient and noisy helicopter with the luggage. No comfort there! About two hours over dreary country and got nervous about my inside which always plays up when one is in no position to do anything about it. Met all our party. South Africans very pleasant.

All the staff do everything possible to help in any way and couldn't be nicer. Lovely big tents with wood fire (not lit tonight thanks be) Mosquito killer (electric). Cold water and basin. Shelf space and hangers and two beds.

I have been lent a Looms double handed rod and single handed rod and a wading stick. After a very early dinner (because of our Travel) I went down to the river with a rod - 8 people there already and not moving, so only had a short go. A ?? St Petersburg boy helped me across a small river, hovered behind. Two ghillies on duty 'in case'. They drew lots for beats and ghillies tomorrow. I have drawn the Englishman, who seems nice. They all are and really do all they can to keep one happy. I am to have coffee at 7.15 tomorrow because a thermos 'would not be nice'.

It is raining! Set in slowly. River is low and they have had a hot week. I wonder what OUR weather will be like. Still very warm. Bed at 8.30. Still do not know, or my tummy does not know what time it is really. 3 hours difference our time.

Hope for a good night after two bad ones in hotels.

August 18th Sunday

Went out with Ian, the Englishman who lives at Staunton? Morning quiet but we got 5 fish. One 19 lbs and missed a few. One to Comadie? which broke the hook. Ian such fun and enjoyed the day so much.

Dinner with the South Africans was fun. Talked to the Canadian scientific chap who wants to do an article on me!! Always knew I was meant to be famous! Parted from the scientist (who was most interesting) saying I was going back to the tent to see if my battery (camcorder) was charged. He followed me in stitches as he could not understand what I was going to do!! What his imagination had imagined I don't know!

August 19th Monday

Off in the helicopter with Scott and two others who were above us???. We went 10 miles from the sea. We soon got two salmon (one fresh fish of 10 lbs) and were cock a hoop. But after that nothing happened. Scott had to make for cover several times as he had eaten something.

The heavens opened with a thunderstorm. Wind changed and casting was difficult. Scot's idea of using the boat was to get into the water and let one down stream. By 5 my back was shot with no chair so I lay down in the boat and Scot caught a fish! I missed one or two and got 4 in all. It seemed that was quite good. Mike got the same.

We talked with the two South Africans. Very nice and cheerful. I and the ghillie mended my camcorder. The South African told me the extra rod outside my test was left there by an admirer - an old Russian custom!

Had a talk with a Frenchman and agreed they had been as bad as us at mismanaging our fish stocks!

August 20th - Tuesday

POURING with rain - even the loo is a hazard. Now for the breakfast tent.

What a day! Went with Max (Russian boy) who was superb. We drove at great speed about 20 miles, fished from then till 6.15 with a short interval for lunch. Couldn't eat much. Got five salmon before lunch and three afterwards. Lay flat on my back in exhaustion while Max caught a 15 lb fresh fish and made me play it. Take camcorder pictures. I collapsed two or three times for 10 minutes while Max fished. He got another. Every time I said I was dead be saw another salmon and I sent for it. Got a big one at 6 and lost it after playing it up to the boat. Probably 12 or 14 lbs.

Raced back. Tired and very cold by now. Quick hair do and went to the dinner tent to give Mike the Vodka. Sat with the South Africans as usual - so nice - and Fred the Scientist. Max got my film on to tape and showed it but battery died so ??? Tomorrow. The guide of yesterday tells me I am top rod so far!! Walked down to the showers having been shown by them how to work them and got clean!! Out with another new guide tomorrow.

The French tent is very noisy while they drink their imported wind. Had a great talk with one last night - from Paris.

August 21st - Wednesday

Cold. Grey skies but not raining. Quite a gale all day. Went off in the helicopter with two Frenchmen and our ghillies - about 15 miles to Upper Tomba - where we parted with the French. Volodia? was my ghillie - with sufficient English to talk a bit but not too much.

Caught a fish on about my third cast! Went further up the river and got four fish before lunch - which we had in the tent. Volodia and I climbing the steep slope to the tent. Found the French in occupation. They offered me Pasties which I refused in the interests of safety! But drank a can and a half of Finnish beer and ate very little! Got four more fish after lunch. One I didn't get came four times to the strange silver and pale green fly (Christmas Tree).
Tried for a ninth by the Heli-pad but it was not to be. Two of the fish were 36" and must have been 15 lbs or more. The second big fish took itself to Vladevostock and back and was heavy going. Occasionally I had a rest and Volodia fished. He got three - one of which he insisted on landing (netting) himself after five false efforts.

Helicopter came at 6 and we were not ready. Very bitten round the wrists and ears. Mostly on the way to the loo or the dining tent. Food is superb - both the picnic and dinner.

When you land in a boat the little tractor dashes down and picks up your baggage and I get a ride back - same from the helicopter. Really good organisation.

Very good dinner - cheese (stilton etc.) soup, hot smoked salmon and salad. Beef steak (medium rare) excellent with potatoes, vanilla ice cream with torte and syrup (Canadian).

Fishing with big Iceland fellow tomorrow who gets out and pushes the t Just above the home beat. Hardly if it rains and blows.

Thunderstorms two days ago during lunch so no fear of carbon fibre rods.

Got 8 fish. Two of about 15-16 lbs. One went ??? And took all backing and some time to get in. No fresh fish today.

22nd August Thursday

Worst yet but enjoyed being with Scott. Tried everything - rose fish with yellow black and silver but they wouldn't hang on. Got two fish - one 9.30 a.m. - one 5.30 p.m.

They pounced on the fly and nibbled it two or three times but wouldn't take and when they did it was in the lip. Tried HARD and was totally exhausted by six and home. Took some pictures and talked to the Canadian Scientist. Mike got two - the American woman got 2 - her husband one. So a bad day. Much colder! ???? 22nd Temp of air 40 degrees.

Dinner with lecture from Fred - the Scientist which was interesting. Some 'fall' salmon over winter under the ice and do not spawn till the following fall. 18 months in the river and shall tell no more stories. My first was interrupted by King Crab Course and the second by the Scientist! Alas they will never hear the punch lines. No 'Interview' with Fred 'though we have talked a good deal (He has!) Not a listener. I can't remember the name of my Russian Guide who was very good.

23rd August Friday

Went in Helicopter after an interview with 'Fred' the scientist. Lost two fish and waited till 5.30 before I caught one. A good 11 lb fish (fresh) which was knocked on the head. Got three more in the next hour and no more reaction at all. Helicopter arrived and we ran up the river looking for seals. Saw 8 or 10 half way up. A very extensive programme is under way for the Ponoi. Fish, flora and fauna. ???? Past - where caught etc., tagged and reported.

They use 50 cc engines, the Russians forbid anything over 5 ccs after Aug 1st.

Very good dinner with Gravalax and salmon roe. Salmon dish and pork dish (all Russian) then good ice cream with maple syrup. Doug in great form and lots of photos taken with arms around.

We all sat in Nationalities. French table, American table, Brits and South Africans.

So my total is 31 which is BEST YET and was top score till the U.S. Got 20 today!! That was a leg pull! I am still top rod I think.

24th August Saturday

Woken at 5.15 this morning. Breakfast at 6. Fred has got my address for 'the article' and Ian has given me a letter to post in England. My luggage is in the portico ready for collection. All very sad.

Porros to Murmansk - Stopped in Helicopter to pick up two people and again to refuel. Nearly an hour there because of fog in Murmansk. Walked a long way in Murmansk and lots of officialdom, but no problems.

Sat alone on the plane and had a bed and good lunch. Gravalax and smoked salmon. It has gone round the staff that I caught 31 salmon. Fame at last.

In the camp the French stuck together and the Americans were suffering from our Enquire disease of thinking they were God Given. Not one of the American party ever come up to me to chat 'though of course in the course of things one did meet them on the river or drinking. The doctor who was disgusted that, as a smoker, I was fit enough at 84 to come fishing, last the course and catch fish. He was still shaking his head as we left the Kola Peninsula. His wife, an amiable lady, kissed me on both cheeks, in spite of hardly ever spoken, except when spoken to! Mary Alvenson, wife of American chef was utterly lovely to everyone. I suspect everyone thought they were special. What an art.

The ghillies were super. Scot the large blond American was indifferent the first time, but frequently had to stop the boat and dash for cover. The second time he was more amiable tho' I had my two worst days with him. Boris, the last day, said, very sadly 'oh Barbara' when I lost a fish. 'What did I do? I asked. 'You were holding the line against the rod.' So I tried to remember not to do it any more and NEVER to strike.

Mike, an enormous support on the way home also bought some cigarettes for me so I have 400. If I am met in a wheel chair I may never see him again. They do rush one through.

I left 200 cigarettes in Murmansk so need all the help I can get. Dick and Doug are somewhere in the plane - may seem them at Heathrow. Doug was great fun and good to me.