August 10th Saturday
Only five more days to lift off. Lots to do, including six of family to lunch tomorrow. Had excellent lunch with Audrey Fanshawe do today. Did a bit of sorting of fishing gear and mended Barbour. Stiff neck - going I think - what else can happen?
August 11th. Sunday
Nice to have Conrad, Adria, Arthur and Prue for lunch. Went for a walk in POURING rain. It stopped soon after we got back. Arthur's dog is gorgeous.
August 12th Monday
Went to Salisbury for vodka and cigarettes and to get rid of papers and bottles. Walked Harry. Sorted reels, one very fouled up. Would like to take it to Russia. One singing with shooting head, one floating ditto. One just floating and one intermediate. A bit heavy for the luggage. Waxed my Barbour. It seems heavier than ever!
Rang Tony. He would not have been fit to go to Russia. Only one heal has healed and I don't think he feels very well. Did a big wash. Also put flowers in pots outside and washed the bowls. Hope they survive. Am smoking too much.
August 14th Wednesday
Have collected medicines. Rung Mike, who has rung Frontiers to check flights. Stopped milk and papers. Sorted note case and packed. Petrol in case. Ironed two skirts and three bloused. Packed medicines - lost labels!
August 15th Thursday
Taxi with nice young driver arrived on time. Mark and Caroline 'saw me off'. Found Mike at the bar at the Arlington ready with a Vodka and Tonic. We ate in the bar. Poor man, his walled was stolen at Heathrow and he is without English money or credit cards. Very stoical about it.
August 16th Friday
Off at 8 for the Air Port and WAIT FOR MY CHAIR. In the end only time to rush into Duty Free for cigarettes and straight to the plane. Kit bags searched with a tooth comb. The life belt evidently the trouble. Hope mine gets through in kit bag. Good lunch. Cross words and views of South Sweden. 3.30 local time arrived Helsinki and a nice girl took us, in huge bus to hotel. Big room and huge bed. Can't open windows. Had an awful night at the Arlington and was sleeping soundly when was woken at 6.45. An earlier start tomorrow and last bath for a week!
We walked a long way into the town and took a tripper boat round the harbour which turned out to be 1½ hours round countless attractive islands. There must be 100 or more. A chap told us in 4 languages what to look out for. In 'shirt sleeves' and net top. Cold on the top deck. Well worth doing. Such a wonderful place and so unexpected. Lots of Japanese tourists. Have not connected with any of our party yet.
Saturday August 17th
We got here at last. Up at 5 AM and sat in the bus (after a quick breakfast) One poor chap had no visa and had to be left behind. To Murmansk and another long wait and then with ancient and noisy helicopter with the luggage. No comfort there! About two hours over dreary country and got nervous about my inside which always plays up when one is in no position to do anything about it. Met all our party. South Africans very pleasant.
All the staff do everything possible to help in any way and couldn't be nicer. Lovely big tents with wood fire (not lit tonight thanks be) Mosquito killer (electric). Cold water and basin. Shelf space and hangers and two beds.
I have been lent a Looms double handed rod and single handed rod and a wading stick. After a very early dinner (because of our Travel) I went down to the river with a rod - 8 people there already and not moving, so only had a short go. A ?? St Petersburg boy helped me across a small river, hovered behind. Two ghillies on duty 'in case'. They drew lots for beats and ghillies tomorrow. I have drawn the Englishman, who seems nice. They all are and really do all they can to keep one happy. I am to have coffee at 7.15 tomorrow because a thermos 'would not be nice'.
It is raining! Set in slowly. River is low and they have had a hot week. I wonder what OUR weather will be like. Still very warm. Bed at 8.30. Still do not know, or my tummy does not know what time it is really. 3 hours difference our time.
Hope for a good night after two bad ones in hotels.
August 18th Sunday
Went out with Ian, the Englishman who lives at Staunton? Morning quiet but we got 5 fish. One 19 lbs and missed a few. One to Comadie? which broke the hook. Ian such fun and enjoyed the day so much.
Dinner with the South Africans was fun. Talked to the Canadian scientific chap who wants to do an article on me!! Always knew I was meant to be famous! Parted from the scientist (who was most interesting) saying I was going back to the tent to see if my battery (camcorder) was charged. He followed me in stitches as he could not understand what I was going to do!! What his imagination had imagined I don't know!
August 19th Monday
Off in the helicopter with Scott and two others who were above us???. We went 10 miles from the sea. We soon got two salmon (one fresh fish of 10 lbs) and were cock a hoop. But after that nothing happened. Scott had to make for cover several times as he had eaten something.
The heavens opened with a thunderstorm. Wind changed and casting was difficult. Scot's idea of using the boat was to get into the water and let one down stream. By 5 my back was shot with no chair so I lay down in the boat and Scot caught a fish! I missed one or two and got 4 in all. It seemed that was quite good. Mike got the same.
We talked with the two South Africans. Very nice and cheerful. I and the ghillie mended my camcorder. The South African told me the extra rod outside my test was left there by an admirer - an old Russian custom!
Had a talk with a Frenchman and agreed they had been as bad as us at mismanaging our fish stocks!
August 20th - Tuesday
POURING with rain - even the loo is a hazard. Now for the breakfast tent.
What a day! Went with Max (Russian boy) who was superb. We drove at great speed about 20 miles, fished from then till 6.15 with a short interval for lunch. Couldn't eat much. Got five salmon before lunch and three afterwards. Lay flat on my back in exhaustion while Max caught a 15 lb fresh fish and made me play it. Take camcorder pictures. I collapsed two or three times for 10 minutes while Max fished. He got another. Every time I said I was dead be saw another salmon and I sent for it. Got a big one at 6 and lost it after playing it up to the boat. Probably 12 or 14 lbs.
Raced back. Tired and very cold by now. Quick hair do and went to the dinner tent to give Mike the Vodka. Sat with the South Africans as usual - so nice - and Fred the Scientist. Max got my film on to tape and showed it but battery died so ??? Tomorrow. The guide of yesterday tells me I am top rod so far!! Walked down to the showers having been shown by them how to work them and got clean!! Out with another new guide tomorrow.
The French tent is very noisy while they drink their imported wind. Had a great talk with one last night - from Paris.
August 21st - Wednesday
Cold. Grey skies but not raining. Quite a gale all day. Went off in the helicopter with two Frenchmen and our ghillies - about 15 miles to Upper Tomba - where we parted with the French. Volodia? was my ghillie - with sufficient English to talk a bit but not too much.
Caught a fish on about my third cast! Went further up the river and got four fish before lunch - which we had in the tent. Volodia and I climbing the steep slope to the tent. Found the French in occupation. They offered me Pasties which I refused in the interests of safety! But drank a can and a half of Finnish beer and ate very little! Got four more fish after lunch. One I didn't get came four times to the strange silver and pale green fly (Christmas Tree).
Tried for a ninth by the Heli-pad but it was not to be. Two of the fish were 36" and must have been 15 lbs or more. The second big fish took itself to Vladevostock and back and was heavy going. Occasionally I had a rest and Volodia fished. He got three - one of which he insisted on landing (netting) himself after five false efforts.
Helicopter came at 6 and we were not ready. Very bitten round the wrists and ears. Mostly on the way to the loo or the dining tent. Food is superb - both the picnic and dinner.
When you land in a boat the little tractor dashes down and picks up your baggage and I get a ride back - same from the helicopter. Really good organisation.
Very good dinner - cheese (stilton etc.) soup, hot smoked salmon and salad. Beef steak (medium rare) excellent with potatoes, vanilla ice cream with torte and syrup (Canadian).
Fishing with big Iceland fellow tomorrow who gets out and pushes the t Just above the home beat. Hardly if it rains and blows.
Thunderstorms two days ago during lunch so no fear of carbon fibre rods.
Got 8 fish. Two of about 15-16 lbs. One went ??? And took all backing and some time to get in. No fresh fish today.
22nd August Thursday
Worst yet but enjoyed being with Scott. Tried everything - rose fish with yellow black and silver but they wouldn't hang on. Got two fish - one 9.30 a.m. - one 5.30 p.m.
They pounced on the fly and nibbled it two or three times but wouldn't take and when they did it was in the lip. Tried HARD and was totally exhausted by six and home. Took some pictures and talked to the Canadian Scientist. Mike got two - the American woman got 2 - her husband one. So a bad day. Much colder! ???? 22nd Temp of air 40 degrees.
Dinner with lecture from Fred - the Scientist which was interesting. Some 'fall' salmon over winter under the ice and do not spawn till the following fall. 18 months in the river and shall tell no more stories. My first was interrupted by King Crab Course and the second by the Scientist! Alas they will never hear the punch lines. No 'Interview' with Fred 'though we have talked a good deal (He has!) Not a listener. I can't remember the name of my Russian Guide who was very good.
23rd August Friday
Went in Helicopter after an interview with 'Fred' the scientist. Lost two fish and waited till 5.30 before I caught one. A good 11 lb fish (fresh) which was knocked on the head. Got three more in the next hour and no more reaction at all. Helicopter arrived and we ran up the river looking for seals. Saw 8 or 10 half way up. A very extensive programme is under way for the Ponoi. Fish, flora and fauna. ???? Past - where caught etc., tagged and reported.
They use 50 cc engines, the Russians forbid anything over 5 ccs after Aug 1st.
Very good dinner with Gravalax and salmon roe. Salmon dish and pork dish (all Russian) then good ice cream with maple syrup. Doug in great form and lots of photos taken with arms around.
We all sat in Nationalities. French table, American table, Brits and South Africans.
So my total is 31 which is BEST YET and was top score till the U.S. Got 20 today!! That was a leg pull! I am still top rod I think.
24th August Saturday
Woken at 5.15 this morning. Breakfast at 6. Fred has got my address for 'the article' and Ian has given me a letter to post in England. My luggage is in the portico ready for collection. All very sad.
Porros to Murmansk - Stopped in Helicopter to pick up two people and again to refuel. Nearly an hour there because of fog in Murmansk. Walked a long way in Murmansk and lots of officialdom, but no problems.
Sat alone on the plane and had a bed and good lunch. Gravalax and smoked salmon. It has gone round the staff that I caught 31 salmon. Fame at last.
In the camp the French stuck together and the Americans were suffering from our Enquire disease of thinking they were God Given. Not one of the American party ever come up to me to chat 'though of course in the course of things one did meet them on the river or drinking. The doctor who was disgusted that, as a smoker, I was fit enough at 84 to come fishing, last the course and catch fish. He was still shaking his head as we left the Kola Peninsula. His wife, an amiable lady, kissed me on both cheeks, in spite of hardly ever spoken, except when spoken to! Mary Alvenson, wife of American chef was utterly lovely to everyone. I suspect everyone thought they were special. What an art.
The ghillies were super. Scot the large blond American was indifferent the first time, but frequently had to stop the boat and dash for cover. The second time he was more amiable tho' I had my two worst days with him. Boris, the last day, said, very sadly 'oh Barbara' when I lost a fish. 'What did I do? I asked. 'You were holding the line against the rod.' So I tried to remember not to do it any more and NEVER to strike.
Mike, an enormous support on the way home also bought some cigarettes for me so I have 400. If I am met in a wheel chair I may never see him again. They do rush one through.
I left 200 cigarettes in Murmansk so need all the help I can get. Dick and Doug are somewhere in the plane - may seem them at Heathrow. Doug was great fun and good to me.
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